Our lawn is a landscape feature just as are flower beds or shade trees. Some landscapes incorporate large lawn areas, thus making the lawn a major landscape feature. The turfgrass sward has many environmental benefits, but in the landscape, its attractive quality is an essential feature.

Lawn quality is difficult to measure since it is a composite of many characteristics. The relative importance of these characteristics depends on the turf’s use. In a lawn setting, it needs to look good. Our warm-season grasses should naturally look their best in mid and late summer. This visual quality is best measured in turf uniformity, density and texture. Texture and color are normally a function of the grass type and cultivar, but mowing and soil fertility can influence these characteristics. We have the management inputs for uniformity and density.

The main factors in growing thick, good-looking lawns are proper fertilizer, watering and mowing. Pest control is another issue we don’t have time to discuss, but it should be considered as the next level of lawn care. You must first grow a lawn, then protect it. In fact, growing a good healthy lawn is the first step in turf pest control.

The most common lawn grasses in Louisiana are centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass. Both are warm-season grasses. We actively grow them from mid spring through early fall. Mid summer is a time when we either are pushing thin turf to fill in or are maintaining good turf without over management.

Feed Correctly

We must feed the lawn properly to get or keep density. Yes, that means it will grow more and needs more mowing, but such is the nature of a good lawn. One might consider other ground covers if need be; very shady areas would often do better with that choice if St. Augustinegrass will not grow well there. A soil sample sent to a soil test lab every few years is the only way to tell what your lawn really needs. The results show soil pH (acidity), major soil nutrient levels, interpretation of those levels and recommendations for effective fertilizing based on the soil type and species grown. If soil pH values warrant changes for good growth, then a lime or sulfur requirement will be given. This application is done with one or more applications during the cooler seasons to avoid burning the turf. A local parish county agent can advise you about soil testing, send a sample off and help you with interpreting the results.

If we assume you have an average soil with soil pH of 6 to 7 for St. Augustine and 5.5 to 6 for centipede, then a general turf fertilizer will do. These have an ideal analysis ratio of about 3 to 1 to 2 or 4-1-3. We see many ratios of about 9-1-1, but this is mostly nitrogen (N), and turf needs more potassium (K) than that ratio. You may use a 9-1-1 ratio material, but be sure to use some extra potash (third number) in the early fall. This may be applied as a "southern winterizer" blend with high potassium or as muriate of potash (0-0-60 at 1-2 lbs/1000 sq. ft.).

Whatever blends you choose, follow the directions on the bag for application to St. Augustines. They usually require three to four applications per season at a rate of 1 lb. nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq. ft. Centipede lawns require half as much N as do St. Augustine lawns, and to miss this fact can lead to buildup of centipede decline syndrome. Some special centipede lawn fertilizers have about equal N and K but no phosphorus. These are excellent choices, and these blends may also be used on any turf where soil phosphorus tests very high.

Always apply granulars to dry turf and then water them in or plan for a light rain for activation. A heavy rain may wash some of the fertilizer into the gutter.

Water Correctly

We need to water as needed. Irrigation frequency depends on seasonal rainfall and soil type. The old "one inch of rain or irrigation per week" means little. Heavy clay soils need up to 2½ times as much irrigation water as sandy soils when dry. When the lawn first shows any droughty or off-color areas, water immediately. Water well but infrequently so that the root zone is moistened to about 4 inches down. A shovel is a useful tool to determine depth of wetting by viewing a wedge of irrigated soil.

This may require watering in consecutive, short cycles until the wetting depth is achieved. By watering in cycles, we keep most of the irrigation water on the lawn and out of the gutter. After watering, allow several hours to soak in and reach a stable state, then check the final wetted zone.

Those homes with irrigation systems should initially have a routine irrigation water test run on a sample of the irrigation water. This will ensure that the irrigation water is suitable and will not bring on soil problems from alkalinity and salt. The LSU AgCenter soil test lab, like other state soils labs, also tests irrigation water for agricultural irrigation. Here again, your AgCenter county agent can tell you about this service and send your sample off or click here.

Mow Correctly

Fertilizer and adequate moisture bring growth; then we must maintain and thicken that growth with proper mowing. Mowing reduces leaf area and forces denser growth. Improper mowing creates a nutritional shock to the plant which will thin the stand. Never take more than the top 1/3 of the foliage off at any one mowing to minimize shock from carbohydrate loss. St. Augustine is cut to 2½ inches in sun and 3 inches in shade. Centipede is cut to 1 to 1½ inches (1½ in shade) for best health and appearance. Don’t forget to sharpen that mower blade twice in a season. A fairly sharp blade gives an attractive surface and healthier lawn. It also reduces turf water loss, thus holding off drought effects.

Mid summer is the time to grow and thicken your lawn. Some insects such as chinch bugs and army worms may be of concern, so scout at first signs of discoloration and treat if needed. Diseases such as leaf spots and take-all patch may be a concern especially if times are stressful to the turf. Weed control on these grasses is normally done in the cooler fall, late winter and especially spring to avoid turf damage. That "southern living lawn" does take a proper game plan and work, but it can be an outstanding landscape feature.