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April is late enough to avoid most frosts and early enough that plants are unlikely to experience excessively warm temperatures.
Some of the most important steps in disease management must be taken before planting.
The snap bean is another warm-season vegetable that can be planted relatively early in the year.
Sweet corn can be planted earlier than many other warm-season vegetables.
For woody plants and palms, waiting is advised.
If you’ve been thinking of planting a new citrus tree or have an older one that needs to be pruned or fertilized, February is a time to do these things.
Some products have similar trade names but contain active ingredients that have different effects.
Muscadines fruit on shoots that come from the previous season’s growth.
A primary criterion for choosing pecan varieties for yards and home orchards is resistance to pecan scab.
The sweet potato production cycle begins when sweet potatoes from the previous harvest season are planted in the spring, to produce “slips” for transplanting.
Composting is a way to take yard, garden, and kitchen “waste” and turn it into something useful.
Pears can be grown here, but selecting an appropriate variety is really important.
Each year, we face situations during which some of our plants could be injured by cold weather.
Mushrooms of Armillaria and Desarmillaria fungi, which cause root rot on a number of woody plants, often appear in the fall.
Green, snow, and sugar snap peas can be planted between mid-September and January.
Muscadines are well-adapted to our climate.
While native persimmons are astringent until ripe, some oriental persimmons are considered non-astringent and can be eaten while still fairly firm.
If you want long-term control of fire ants but also need to get rid of them quickly in one or more spots, you can take a two-step approach.
Shallots are easy to grow and taste wonderful in holiday dishes. Plant them soon if you want a crop by Thanksgiving.
The second half of October is a good time to plant strawberries in our area.
Start watching for leaffooted bugs in August and keep a lookout for them as fruit ripens.
Blossom end rot and buckeye rot are common problems with tomatoes.
A newsletter for horticulturists. Growing beans in the fall, chamberbitter control, utilizing a rain gauge, and controlling cool season weeds.
Have you noticed toothpick like growths sticking out of your tree?
A newsletter for horticulturists. Industrial hemp and pruning azaleas.
Cucuzza is a unique gourd to add to your vegetable garden. They are edible and are popular in Italian cooking.
A newsletter for horticulturists. Planting for fall color, green onions, and buttonbush.
A newsletter for horticulturists. Fig problems, starting seeds, and ornamental peppers.
Spiny pigweed is one of the worst weeds home gardeners deal with.
Figs are one of our more easy-to-grow fruit plants, although at this time of year, leaf diseases are often observed.
Roughly 99% of insects are not “pests.”
A newsletter for horticulturists. Cool spring delays plant growth, blossom end rot, and fertilizing lawns.
Black flies, or buffalo gnats, are a major nusiance in the Feliciana parishes in spring.
Deer can be a nuisance to gardeners in certain parts of Louisiana. Here are some practical tips to help you lessen deer damage in your landscape.
A newsletter for horticulturists.Plant sweet peas now, cool season vegetable issues, mulch, and houseplants.
A newsletter for horticulturists. Plan fall gardens now, planting trees and shrubs, Camelot Foxglove
The orange dog caterpillar may look ugly now, but in a few short weeks it will turn into a beautiful butterfly.
Start planning for fall vegetable and flower gardens now and you will save time and money when its time to buy plants.
Following good cultural practices and scouting for insects and disease will allow homeowners to enjoy pecans year after year.
Mayhaw trees are native to Louisiana and do well in this area.
Most of our blackberry and blueberry plants have finished fruiting, so it’s time to think about pruning them and making a final fertilizer application.
There are still quite a few vegetables that can be planted now and in the coming weeks
Several types of insects make highly noticeable webs in trees.
Most herbs require minimal maintenance, and many are perennials that can produce for a number of years.
Here are some reasons fruit or nut trees may fail to produce, or produce less than expected.
There's a variety of reasons that this can occur.
Besides diseases that kill tomato plants outright, there are leaf spot diseases that can reduce plants’ productivity and sometimes infect fruit.
Wilting tomatoes are a common complaint. There are several possible causes.
Just about any vegetable can be grown in some type of container.
I want to share some resources that you might find useful for vegetable gardening, in general, and for gardening with kids, specifically.
Composting turns "waste" into something useful.
Raised beds are often the best option for growing vegetables at home.
Site conditions include the amount of sun an area gets, how well drained it is, and whether the site gets more or less effective rainfall than the open yard.
Topics will include fruits and nuts; vegetables and herbs; ornamental landscape plants; soils, fertilizers, and plant nutrition; and pest management.
Making good plant choices is one of the most important aspects of gardening and landscaping.
Choosing disease resistant varieties is a way to save time and money, reduce pesticide use, and increase your enjoyment of the garden.
Choosing disease-resistant varieties is a way to avoid many plant disease problems.
The LSU AgCenter has a lot of resources that address a variety of topics.
Removing blackberry floricanes soon after harvest reduces the chance for certain diseases to spread from floricanes to primocanes.
Our growing season is long enough that we can prune blueberries soon after harvest, and the plants will have time to set flower buds for the next year.
There are several simple practices that can help you avoid leaf spot diseases.
Southern bacterial wilt and southern blight are two of the most common causes of wilting tomatoes in our area.
