Whenever spring is right around the corner, many people have grand plans for their landscape. One thing you may consider is renovating your lawn. Questions that may arise include: What is wrong with my current lawn? What is the predominant turf species in my lawn? What am I hoping to achieve with a lawn renovation? Can I fix problem spots? Which turf species best suits my environment? This serves as a step-by-step guide to choosing the best turf species for your lawn.

Step 1: Evaluate your environment

Sunlight: How many hours of sunlight does your lawn receive? Does most of the area receive high levels (three to seven hours) or low levels (less than 1 to three hours) of sunlight? Does the area receive afternoon or morning sunlight?

Temperature and humidity: Most Louisiana landscapes experience high temperatures and high humidity in the summer months and mild winter months. Is this the case for your lawn? What growing zone are you? Growing zones, or plant hardiness zones, are regions classified by the typical lowest winter temperatures. Each zone represents a range of average annual minimum temperatures, helping gardeners determine which plants are most likely to survive and thrive in a specific climate.

Drainage: Does the lawn have good drainage? Are there any low spots that hold water? How long does the water puddle before draining? Is the lawn on a slope? How steep is the slope? Am I creating a drought-prone environment for the lawn?

Soil type: What soil type do you have? Sandy soils hold less moisture than clay/loam soils. Have you taken a soil sample? If so, what nutrient trends are present? What is the pH? Always follow soil test recommendations to achieve desired soil pH. An LSU AgCenter soil test will analyze your soil and provide amendment recommendations.

Neighboring structures and plants: Are nearby tree roots interfering with turf root establishment? Is a structure or plant creating too much shade? How much concrete is surrounding the lawn?

Animal and human activity: How much soil compaction will the lawn receive? Will wildlife or pets be active on the lawn? Will you drive or park vehicles on the lawn?

Step 2: Turfgrass species

1. St. Augustinegrass is a fast establishing, moderate maintenance turf species. In comparison to other turfgrass species, St. Augustinegrass has good shade tolerance but performs best in full sun. It is widely popular for its excellent heat and humidity tolerance in south Louisiana’s climate. This species has a dense growth habit that can aid in weed suppression. St. Augustinegrass needs regular watering, so without frequent summer rains, additional irrigation is necessary. It grows in various soil types that have moderate fertility, are slightly acidic to neutral (ideal pH 6.5) and have good drainage. St. Augustinegrass requires relatively low maintenance once established. Plant establishment can be achieved via plugs or sod.
2. Zoysia has gained popularity because of its durability and low mowing requirements. Other desirable characteristics include excellent drought tolerance and wear resistance. It has thick blade density in both medium- and fine-textured varieties. This species also has high cold tolerance, unlike many other grass species. It grows in many soil types, even dry soils, and prefers slightly acidic soils (ideal pH between 6 and 7). Zoysia establishes slowly but has a thick, dense growth habit that can aid in weed suppression. The plant spreads laterally above and below ground via stolons and rhizomes, respectively. There is typically a high initial cost with zoysia due to higher purchase price, installation cost and maintenance inputs. Zoysia is mostly established via sodding, but it can also be seeded or plugged. Thatch can develop over time in zoysia, and compaction occurs more frequently on fine-textured soils.
3. Bermudagrass is an excellent choice for sunny lawns with high foot traffic. It is a popular choice for athletic fields and golf courses because it has good wear recovery, drought tolerance and thrives in full sun. With that, it has poor shade tolerance. In appearance, it has a tight, compact growth habit. High levels of maintenance are necessary for a pristine appearance. Naturally occurring rains typically provide sufficient water; however, drought conditions may require additional irrigation to prevent drought stress. Bermudagrass is most established via seed for common bermudagrass and plugs or sod for vegetatively propagated bermudagrass cultivars.
4. Centipedegrass is a popular low-maintenance turf option for Louisiana lawns because of its ability to tolerate moderate shade and acidic soils with low nitrogen fertility (less than pH 7). When grown in basic soils (more than pH 7), centipedegrass may display yellow leaves. It grows in various soil types but performs best in well-drained soil with minimal compaction. Heavy traffic can compact soil, causing stress and purple or red leaves. Dethatching or aeration in late spring to summer can reduce thatch and compaction. Rainfall often meets water needs, but irrigation may be necessary during drought. Centipedegrass establishment methods include seed, plugs and sod.
5. Carpetgrass is well-suited for areas with wet, acidic soil (less than pH 7). It is considered a low-maintenance species because of its lateral spread with rhizomes; however, this grass produces frequent seed heads that may require extra mowing. It performs best in full-sun areas but can tolerate partial shade. Rainfall usually meets water needs, but irrigation is necessary during drought. Thatch typically does not occur in carpetgrass, but if soil compaction occurs, aeration in late spring or summer is recommended. Carpetgrass is typically established by seeding, though plugs can also be used.

Step 3: Obtaining grass and establishment methods

After determining which turf species is best for your landscape, how do you establish the species? There are four main establishment methods: seed, sod, plugs and natural spread (stolons/rhizomes). Each establishment method is described below.

• Seed: Follow label seed rates and instructions.
• Sod: Purchase sod and lay it on a smooth soil surface. Irrigate frequently after laying sod and continue to irrigate as needed until sod roots are established.
• Plugs: Purchase or create plugs from sod and plant each piece about 1 foot apart. Irrigate, fertilize and apply weed control as necessary until established.
• Natural spread (stolons/rhizomes): While not a purchased method, species like St. Augustinegrass and Carpetgrass spread laterally via stolons or rhizomes, aiding establishment after initial planting.

Most sod, plugs and seeds can be bought from local landscape and garden supply centers.

When establishing, new turf should be added to loose soil (at least 1 inch deep) to ensure root establishment, and adding approximately 1/2 inch of organic material such as peat moss enhances nutrient availability and microbial activity. Note: Ensure all existing grass or weedy material is removed before planting turf to eliminate risk of competition and establishment issues.

Step 4: Maintaining turf species

Mowing: It is a good rule of thumb to never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade height at one mowing for any turf species. Mowing at the appropriate height is crucial in preventing scalping and reducing weed encroachment. The exception to this rule is zoysia. Mowing requirements of zoysia include regular cuts at roughly 1 to 2 inches during the growing seasons.

Fertility: Taking a soil test prior to planting is the smart idea. Don’t guess — soil test. An LSU AgCenter soil test will reveal pH and nutrient levels and recommendations. If fertilization is necessary, nitrogen contributes to faster green growth, so consider applying small quantities for each application for slower top growth. For bermudagrass specifically, nitrogen fertilization will result in faster growth so applying lower nitrogen rates may be advisable.

Soil compaction: As described in the species description, some turfgrasses experience high levels of compaction and require dethatching or aeration. Dethatching involves removing excess thatch (a layer of turfgrass material accumulated between the soil surface and grass blades) from the lawn’s surface. This can be done using specialized tools like dethatchers or power rakes. Aeration, on the other hand, creates holes in the soil to relieve compaction and enhance root growth. Both methods improve air flow, water penetration and nutrient absorption.

For additional information, contact your local LSU AgCenter Extension agent. To learn more about LSU AgCenter soil testing, visit Soil Testing and Plant Analysis Lab.

P3624-ZZZZ
3/23/26
The LSU AgCenter and LSU provide equal opportunities in programs and employment.

St. Augustinegrass