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Staking new tree installations in the landscape is generally not necessary; however, it can be useful for guiding growth and offering protection on windy sites. Staking has its benefits, but if performed improperly it can cause more harm than help to trees. Common issues include staking too tightly, too high or low, and most commonly, for too long. The following will provide insights to guide you as you guide the growth of your trees.
Metal fenceposts (T-posts) or wooden garden stakes (typically 2-by-2-inch posts) are great options. Metal fenceposts are durable and offer support for medium to larger trees, with the added benefit of being easily reusable. Wooden stakes are appropriate for small to medium sized trees.
Ensuring that there are no conflicting underground utilities is the first step before any digging or driving-in of posts. Ideally, this would have been taken care of by calling 811 to mark the utilities before the tree was planted. In order to ensure anchorage, make sure that post(s) are installed into the native soil surrounding the tree and not into the container or balled-and-burlapped root ball media/soil. Avoid installing stakes too close to the tree so that it does in fact go into native soil. Also avoid putting stakes too far from the tree or else it consumes a larger space. Consider installing a mulch ring that slightly extends beyond the stakes for easier maintenance. This helps prevent the need to use a string trimmer up to the stakes, or even worse, the trunk. Drive stakes deep enough so that they are firmly entrenched into the soil. If using just one stake, place it upwind of the tree. Multiple stakes can offer more support from numerous directions. In general, use the least number of stakes necessary to support the tree.
The material used to tie the trunk to the stake is of critical importance. In general, it is best to have materials with a wide, broad surface at the point of contact on the tree trunk. A thicker point of contact of at least 1 inch keeps pressure more evenly distributed along the trunk, rather than a thin material, such as a wire, which can bite into the trunk and cause girdling issues (damage to and through the bark that disrupts nutrient and water transport within the tree). Wide canvas strapping is ideal, but other options may include strips of old carpeting, burlap or old bicycle inner tubes. Plastic chain lock materials can be purchased specifically for tree support. It is common to see garden hose sections used in tree staking applications; however, be careful about what you thread through the garden hose opening. A thin wire encased in the garden hose will still pose problems with stem girdling over time. Just because the hose is preventing direct contact with the wire or thin material doesn’t mean that it can’t negatively impact the tree.
Straps should be affixed to the stem between one-third and two-thirds of the way up the tree trunk towards the first branches. The specific point of contact will necessarily vary between tree species, tree forms, tree maturity and site conditions; however, it is best to avoid placing straps directly below the first branches. Consider the form of the tree, particularly as it relates to wind induced snapping. The straps will create a leverage point where if affixed too high, a heavy wind can snap the stem where the canopy branches and trunk meet. Heavy winds will cause the canopy to sway while the trunk remains rigid, which can lead to snapping.
Straps should provide some flexibility for the stem to move. Allowing some gentle swaying will support long-term health and growth. If straps are affixed too tightly, taller growth may be encouraged at the expense of diameter expansion. Closely monitor the strapped tree to ensure that it is not outgrowing its environment. Removing straps periodically to check the tree’s independent stability and to reduce pressure upon one point can be a good practice.
The most important part of proper tree staking to remember is to remove the straps. Trees should generally only be staked for one season. Leaving stakes or straps on beyond one year can disrupt healthy growth and make the tree less capable of standing on its own. It may be necessary to leave the stakes or straps on for longer for some trees or installations, so when removing straps check to make sure the tree is stable on its own. Check that the root ball doesn’t shift and stem doesn’t bend excessively in undesired directions. Far too often, people forget to remove the straps around the trunk, and the trunk expands and engulfs the strap.
Support systems that rely on “pushing” rather than “pulling” also may be employed. Wooden posts can be installed and affixed to provide pressure to push the tree in the desired direction. Similar concepts to staking apply. A broad surface is best — regardless of whether that is 2-by-4-inch pieces of wood pushing against the trunk or straps pulling against the trunk — and removing them at the right time is essential to long term, self-sustaining support.
Remember that staking trees is like training wheels on a bicycle. It can be necessary to train the tree when it is young, but eventually the training wheels must be removed and that tree should be “taught” to stand on its own (so don’t have the straps too taut). Most importantly, remember to remove the straps or supports once they are no longer needed. Left on too long, straps and staking practices will cause more harm than help.
Trees staked with metal T-posts and straps. Photos by Damon Abdi
Tree strap options include A) a plastic chain lock, B) hose sections and C) broad straps.
Wooden braces may be used to support a tree.
A hose with a thin wire left in place too long causes tree girdling.
Trunks can engulf support that has been left on too long.
For more information on tree staking, please contact your local LSU AgCenter Extension office or visit www.LSUAgCenter.com.
P4008
8/22/2025
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