By Barton Joffrion
LSU AgCenter County Agent (Terrebone Parish)
Gustav has taken its toll in the parish and state, and many assessments will be made in the coming months. This storm has been one that has impacted the urban tree canopy more than any other storm in the past.
Questions are being asked about the trees in the landscape.
Do I cut the tree? Do I upright downed trees? Do I cut and top trees?
You can go on to our Web site at www.lsuagcenter.com and type in Hurricanes and trees to get good information to help in your decisions.
I do want to summarize a few facts dealing with this.
First thing when assessing downed trees is Safety. Check for downed power lines. Look up, down, and sideways and only get close when you are sure power is out to a line.
Stay clear of leaning trees, and if trees are large, seek advice of an LDAF licensed arborist.
After the storm, ask the following questions:
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Is the tree in the right location? If you have a 50-year-old water oak or pecan and it is less than 30 feet from a home or structure and suffered severe damage, it may be time to consider removal.
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Is the tree healthy? If the right species of tree is in the right location and has minor structural damage, it will probably recover.
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Are major limbs or central leader damaged or lost? If this is the case, it may survive but may become stunted and subject to insect and disease pressure.
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Is at least 50 percent of the tree's crown (branches and leaves) still intact? If less than this, the tree will probably struggle to survive.
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How big are wounds caused by branch loss? Large wounds recover slowly. Ragged wounds where bark peels may never recover (insect and disease pressure).
Decide if the tree is a keeper. For slight damage, prune out dead and broken branches repair torn bark and rough edges.
Decide to take a wait and see view of tree. There are trees that are valuable, seem healthy and worth the expense and time to assess and treat by a professional.
Decide if the tree should be removed. Among these are:
- Trees that are in the wrong location and could cause further damage.
- Trees that have more than 50 percent of crown gone.
- Trees with large stem and trunk splits.
- Trees that are big and leaning towards a target.
- Trees with major roots severed or broken.
- Trees with rotten inner core.
Remember, do not top trees. And seek advice from a professional, licensed arborist.
Gustav spots in lawns
LSU AgCenter horticulturist Dr. Tom Koske says to prepare for dead spots in lawns and curb areas. The primary culprit is where yard debris has been piled up for several days. Our lawns need light and air to survive. What will come up after the debris is removed will be mostly weeds. For recovery now, vegetative material is the surest route. Solid sod is a great choice, but plugs or sprigs are also options.
If not solid sodding, watch for weeds this fall and next spring.
Check landscape now
- Begin preparing beds for fall plantings.
- Fall is a great time to plant trees. Remember to plant right tree in right location.
- Plant spring-flowering bulbs from late October through early December. Exceptions are tulips and hyacinths, which must be refrigerated and planted in late December or early January.
- Garden mums are great for fall color.
Vegetables to plant in October
Cabbage, broccoli (transplants), mustard, turnips, collards, kale, parsley, shallots, radishes, beets, spinach, leaf lettuce, Chinese cabbage, celery, onions, Swiss chard, garlic, carrots and endive.
Question. For a green lawn all winter, when is the best time to sow ryegrass seed in the lawn?
Answer. The time to do that is in mid-October through early November. Choose a perennial ryegrass. Sow about 10 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of lawn area.
If you have any questions or need more information, please call (985) 873-6495 or e-mail bjoffrion@agcenter.lsu.edu. Or visit our Web site: www.lsuagcenter.com.